The Delphos Dress (1919)
In similar style to the original pleated ‘Delphos’ dress, look, created by Mariano Fortuny in 1910, Mary McFadden utilized her interest in non-western styles of dressing to create a similar pleated style. However, McFadden utilized a synthetic pleated textile called “marii” to create the look of the elusively permanent silk pleats that Fortuny originally designed. Unfortunately Fortuny took the secret pleating process to the grave, but McFadden’s designs are very similar in the way that they “…have the fabric fall like liquid gold against the body,” McFadden stated.
McFadden’s designs are also different in the sense that she incorporated boning in her bodices to create a more body-hugging effect with her designs, which reflects the change in tastes from the boy-ish loosely worn Delphos dresses of Fortuny in the 20s.
http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2011/01/mary-mcfadden.html
Pleated Evening Dress
Survival of the Fashionist 